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Vegetable & Dishes

Olio

Beancurd, the dried variety of which is cleverly fashioned into shapes and colors minutely resembling meat, is one of the vegetarian cooking school's most versatile components. Made from yellow soya bean, which are soaked, crushed and boiled, beancurd is one of the healthiest foods in existence, high in protein, vitamins and minerals but free from cholesterol. The traditional Chinese disinterest in dairy products, excluding the Mongolians and Yunnan Muslims, is at least partly to do with the similarly high protein content of beancurd and related products such as soya bean milk. The latter is particularly popular for children.

Beancurd was originally a dish for the poor, but is now enjoyed across all social strata, though not everyone enjoys its silky smooth texture. It is believed to have been discovered during the Han dynasty and has a whole folklore surrounding it. An alchemist, determined to create an immortality pill, decided to experiment with the golden soya beans, in the belief that the golden hue might have something to do with longevity. Having soaked and pulped the beans, they simply solidified - into beancurd. Stir-frying is the favored way to cook vegetables, to the point of al dente. Color is considered very important in vegetable cooking, with red and green peppers used to particularly spectacular effect Green vegetables are always cooked with a little salt to help them retain their vibrant color. Cutting vegetables into cubes or slivers of a uniform size also contributes to the visual appeal of simple dishes. Vegetarianism is followed most often for religious rather than ethical or health reasons, but vegetables are a significant part of every diet, whether served alone or in combination with meat, fish or with the simple addition of chicken stock. Sichuan Fried Aubergine can be cooked with or without the addition of pork meat, and Stuffed Aubergine with Spicy Sauce (see page 211) is in fact stuffed with a tiny amount of minced pork. In short, vegetable dishes may include meat, fish or seafood while meat, fish or seafood dishes may include vegetables. The difference is in the proportions.

The vegetable groups most likely to be served vegetarian are greens and these are extremely popular, everything from leafy mustard greens or kale to pea shoots, depending on what is in season.

Cabbage is usually stir-fried or braised, but is preserved in the north to provide sustenance during the long, cold winter, eaten in much the same way as kimchi. Cabbage is sometimes served cold and raw, though marinated first for a slightly vinegar taste.

Leek fried egg

Eggs are also very popular, and common, given the large number of poultry reared. Eggs are most usually scrambled and combined with vegetables and beancurd or simply served hard-boiled. Preserved duck eggs are known as one-thousand-year-old eggs, presumably because of the dramatic color transformation that takes place, the yolk turning greenish-black and the white brown-black. These are considered a delicacy and can be eaten alone (excellent with good red wine!) or as part of a dish.